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Contents

Introduction: The Field of Men's Fashion Part 1: A History of Men's Fashion Section Introduction 1. From Black in Spain to Black in Shakespeare, John Harvey 2. The Three Piece Suit, David Kuchta 3. Macaroni Masculinities, Peter McNeil 4. Thomas Carlyle and 'Sartor Restartus', Michael Carter 5. Dandyism, Visual Games and the Strategies of Representation, Olga Vainshtein 6. A Tale of Three Louis: Ambiguity, Masculinity and the Bowtie, Rob Shields 7. Uniforms and the Creation of Ideal Masculinity, Elizabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch 8. Better and Brighter Clothes: The Men's Dress Reform Party, Barbara Burman Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 2: Masculinity and Sexuality Section Introduction 9. California Casual: Lifestyle Marketing and Men's Leisure Wear, 1930-1960, William R. Scott 10. 'His Clothes': Fashionable Gay Masculinity and the Shopping Experience, London, 1950s-1970s, Clare Lomas 11. Uber Men: Fashionable Heroics and Masculine Style, Vicki Karaminas 12. The Italian Job: Football, Fashion and That Sarong, Stella Bruzzi 13. From Catwalk to Catalogue: Male Models, Masculinity and Identity, Joanne Entwistle 14. The Transvestite Continuum: Liberace-Valentino-Elvis, Marjorie Garber 15. Dragging It Up and Down: The Glamorised Male Body, Mark Simpson 16. Class, Race and Masculinity: The Superfly, The McDaddy and The Rapper, Del LaGrace Volcano and Judith Halberstam Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 3: Icons: The Evolution of Men's Wear Section Introduction 17. The Genesis of the Suit, Anne Hollander 18. The Reinvention of Tailoring, Michael Zakim 19. The Japanese Suit and Modernity, Toby Slade 20. Clothes and the Modern Man in 1930s Oxford, Laura Ugolini 21. A Note: A Charismatic Art: The Balance of Ingratiation and Outrage in Contemporary Fashion, Richard Martin 22. Modern Masculinity and the Rise of School Uniforms, Jennifer Craik 23. Texas Livestock Auctions: A Folklife Ethnography, George A. Boeck, Jr 24. American Denim: Blue Jeans and Their Multiple Layers of Meaning, Beverley Gordon Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 4: Subculture Section Introduction 25. The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence, Holly Alford 26. Back to Africa: Reggae and Rastafarianism, Dick Hebdige 27. Cultural Responses to the Teds, Tony Jefferson 28. Rock, Fashion and Performativity, Noel McLaughlin 29. The Warhol Look, Mark Francis and Margery King 30. 'Macho Man': Clones and the Development of the Masculine Stereotype, Shaun Cole Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part 5: Consuming and Creating Style Section Introduction 31. Fashion and the Man: From Suburb to City Street. The Spaces of Masculine Consumption 1870-1914, Christopher Breward 32. Fashioning the Playboy: Messages of Style and Masculinity in the Pages of Playboy Magazine, 1953-1963, Becky Conekin 33. 'It was Style with a Capital 'S": Versions of Being Male Presented at the Beautillion Ball, Annette Lynch 34. New Men and New Markets, Frank Mort 35. Consuming Masculinities: Style, Content and Men's Magazines, Tim Edwards Annotated Guide to Further Reading Conclusion

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